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How to Texture Paint a Living Room

Textured paint consists of resins and additives to soften the paint and allow it to keep its final form after it dissolves. Texture paint adds dimension to a place. It may highlight your pictures and furnishings, and flip plain living room walls into interesting pieces of artwork. Painting your walls with textured paint may take a little more than simply changing the wall color, however, also the finished product may change the entire feel of the room.

Clear the furniture from the living room. Remove artwork and pictures from the wall.

Eliminate the light-switch cover plates and outlet covers. Tape painter’s tape over the switches and outlets to protect them.

Spread plastic sheeting over the ground. Use painter’s tape to secure the sheeting to the baseboards.

Protect surfaces that you do not want painted, with painter’s tape. Cover any built-ins and items you cannot move from the room with extra pieces of plastic sheeting.

Fill any large holes or cracks in the wall with spackling compound. Use your finger to fill little holes, and also a plastic putty knife to spread the chemical over big cracks.

Allow the spackling compound to dry for the time indicated on the package. Use 220-grit sandpaper to smooth the dry spackling compound.

Clean the living room walls with a mix of three parts water and one part bleach to eliminate any unseen mould and mildew. Allow the walls to dry.

Mix 1/2 cup of trisodium phosphate (TSP) with 2 liters of hot water in a big bucket. Use a grout sponge to clean the walls with the TSP mix. Wash the wall with clean water and permit it to dry.

Lightly sand the walls with 220-grit sandpaper if your walls are painted with semi-gloss or gloss paint. Prep the walls for the texture by painting them with an acrylic bonding primer. Allow the primer to dry for the time recommended by the primer manufacturer.

Visit a paint store to possess Venetian plaster mixed with the colour color of your choice. Pour the tinted plaster into a plastic mud pan.

Ventilate the area. Load a 4- to 6-inch-wide steel putty knife having a generous amount of plaster. Hold the putty knife in about a 30-degree angle to the surface. Randomly use the plaster to the walls, beginning at the top corners having a collection of “X”-shaped strokes.

Keep applying the plaster to the living room walls until you cover the entire surface. Allow the first coat of plaster to dry.

Apply another coat of tinted plaster using the same “X”-shaped strokes while holding the putty knife in a 60-degree angle into the wall. Ensure the entire surface of the wall is coated in plaster.

Smooth any high ridges in the wall texture with a clean putty knife. Allow the newly textured walls to cure for 24 hours.

Burnish the textured surface by rubbing the flat side of the steel putty knife in a circular motion across the walls. Wipe the walls with a clean, damp rag after burnishing.

Employ a transparent, acrylic-based plaster sealer into the living room walls with a paint roller. The sealer helps maintain the plaster clean and protects it from moisture.

Eliminate the painter’s tape and plastic sheeting from all surfaces. Replace the outlet and switch covers. Hang pictures and artwork, and bring the furniture back into the living room.

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Orange Trees That Grow in Cold Climates

Mandarin oranges (Citrus reticulata) varieties of which are known as mandarins, tangerines or satsumas, are far more cold-hardy compared to the common orange (Citrus x sinensis), a fruit with subtropical and tropical origins. Mandarins cannot be grown in mountains or regions with continental winters, but with precautions against sudden drops below freezing, they can typically be grown in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 8b through 11.

Cold Hardy Mandarin Oranges

Temperatures of 26 to 28 degrees Fahrenheit will damage standard orange species. If they’ve become acclimated to the cold, the most cold-hardy mandarin oranges, Satsuma (C. unshiu) and “Changsa” (C. reticulata “Changsa”) can endure temperatures as low as 15 F. A plunge in temperature to 20 F after a period of low temperatures can cause less damage than a drop to 25 F subsequent to warmer weather. Trees less than 2 to 3 years old are much less cold-hardy as those bearing oranges.

Satsuma Mandarin

The Satsuma mandarin, also referred to as the Satsuma tangerine is the most cold-tolerant mandarin cultivar grown commercially and might be the wide variety of choice for those in USDA zone 8b. Mature Satsuma trees have survived winter temperatures of 14 to 18 F with no severe damage in southern Alabama, northern Florida and northern California. They may be grown from the Sacramento-San Joaquin Valley basin of California, in northern Florida and the Gulf Coast.

“Changsa” Mandarin

The “Changsa” mandarin is maybe most cold-hardy of all sweet orange species. The “Changsa” orange returns sweet, but insipid and seedy oranges which are an excellent orange-red. It has survived temperatures as low as 4 F in Arlington, Texas. “Changa” mandarins are most cold-hardy if they’re grown from seed.

Growing Mandarins in Marginal Climates

Orange trees are evergreen and can bear both fruit and flowers at precisely the same time. Since they store food reserves in their leaves, they still have to be protected from temperature drops that can cause their leaves to drop. Small changes in distance from the shore or at elevation can greatly influence minimum temperatures for growing mandarin oranges. With caution, you can develop them farther inland, farther north and at higher elevations than standard orange cultivars. If you reside at the edge of the area acceptable for growing mandarin oranges, then plant them in hot areas on the sides or hills or around buildings. Mountain foothills often contain small protected areas appropriate for growing mandarins.

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Landscaping With Japanese Maple

Japanese maples (Acer palmatum) are powerhouses from the house landscape because of their graceful beauty and shocking, long-lasting color. These deciduous trees display lace-like, delicate foliage in an assortment of warm hues, including shades of red, orange and yellow. With a lift and height of 15 to 25 feet, these plants tolerate pruning and training well, making them a versatile option. For best operation, develop Japanese maples in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 5b through 8b.

General Care

Providing optimal services to plants is vital for a wholesome landscape. Gardeners should plant Japanese maples in regions of the garden which provide some shade, whether beneath taller plants or next to structures which block out some sunlight, as these deciduous plants thrive in partial sun to full shade. They prefer moist, well-drained land with an acid pH of 3.7 to 6.8. Dry soil conditions increase the potential for scorch, particularly when trees are subjected to higher amounts of sunlight. Irrigate soil when the upper layer feels dry to the touch to prevent allowing soil to dry out while preventing excessively moist conditions.

Specimen and Bonsai

Although Japanese maple trees grow naturally as multi-stemmed plants, gardeners may train them according to their liking. To get one pop of color, including a Japanese maple to the landscape as a specimen plant works well near a deck or as a focal point in a smaller lawn. Gardeners can train the plant as a single-stemmed tree to get a less shrub-like look. Additionally, Japanese maples work well as Bonsai plants. Japanese maples can be found in a wide array of cultivars based on the gardener’s curiosity. “Shishigashira,” for example, is known for its streamlined growth and orange color during autumn while “Sumi nagashi” is prized because of its purple foliage that becomes reddish during summer and red during autumn, describes the Texas A&M; AgriLife Extension.

Mass Plantings

By planting Japanese maples within their multi-stemmed, complete glory in either one or a variety of colors, “you are able to make an interesting landscape with nothing but Japanese maples,” suggests the Auburn University College of Agriculture. A gardener may opt to plant a set of one color of Japanese maples, like by planting them en masse behind briefer plants for a large dose of color. However, playing around with color mixtures by grouping an assortment of trees as a main garden appeal creates a unique visual. Planting purple-hued cultivars in conjunction with those displaying yellow foliage creates a brilliant study in contrasts.

Border Plants

Whether planted near one another for a tall, complete visual or trained carefully side for a more formal look, Japanese maples are well-suited to be used as border plants. Gardeners may think about lining the exterior of a garden or planting the trees along a fence to get color and elegance. Moreover, planting shorter cultivars known because of their spherical habit creates a softer impact when branches droop to the ground, including a tranquil look to walkways or driveways.

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The way to Tighten a Loose Dining Table Top

Since wood expands and contracts with seasonal weather changes, a wooden dining table table top made from timber is intended to move since the timber in the table top finishes to the surroundings. If the builder of this table didn’t account for these changes, the table top will likely bow or split over time. As such, most table tops have been connected to the frame using metallic or metal connectors which slide along a groove in the framework.

Remove any items from the table top, and with the help of an assistant, then turn the table upside down so that the table top is resting on the floor.

Find the mounting connectors for the table top along the two longest side aprons of the table framework. The connectors, which might be made from wood, metal or plastic, will probably be attached to the table top with screws and have a lip that fits into a groove in the aprons.

Tighten the screw which mounts each of the connectors to the table top with a screwdriver. If a screw won’t tighten since it is stripped or the area of the table top where the screw is threaded is damaged, then remove the screw to free the connector.

Slide the connector from the damaged section of this table top to a protected section an inch or two away, while still allowing the lip to be securely engaged with the port in the apron. Hold the connector in position and drill a shallow pilot hole to the table top through the hole in the connector using a 1/8-inch drill bit and a power drill. Then insert the screw to the connector and tighten the screw to the pilot hole using a screwdriver. Repeat for another damaged connectors.

Turn the table top back over and check to confirm that the table top is protected to the table’s aprons.

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Pros and Cons of Fiberglass Entry Doors

Wood doors offer a high-end look, but they need more maintenance over time. Steel doors are superior in strength and insulating value, but they are easily dented and scratched, states Mr. Handyman. Happily, a third alternative exists for homeowners that want a customized entry door, superior energy efficiency and low maintenance price: It is called fiberglass. Fiberglass has both advantages and disadvantages that buyers should understand before purchasing doors.

Versatile and Durable

Fiberglass doors are available in a complex selection of styles, colors and finishes — to fit every house exterior. And if you tire of the appearance of your fiberglass door as time passes, repainting is obviously an alternative. Fiberglass is more durable than other substances; it resists dents and scratches and can be impervious to rot and rust which plague doors manufactured from steel or wood. In addition, this type of door never bows or warps from exposure to weather.

Energy Efficient

According to the Department of Energy, fiberglass and steel-skinned doors have greater R-values compared to wooden doors of comparable styles, which means that they keep your house warmer in winter and cooler in summer. A windowless door made from fiberglass offers five times the insulating value of a similar door manufactured from strong wood — a large factor in energy efficiency for homeowners that are worried about the size of their monthly utility bill.

Super Secure

When properly installed, fiberglass doors provide superior security. Your entry door is just as secure as its frame, but composite door frames have double the screw-holding power of wood. Furthermore, fiberglass doesn’t deteriorate over time like doors manufactured from steel or wood. Homeowners never need to worry about repairing rusted-out areas on fiberglass doors or replacing them since they’ve deteriorated from decay.

A Pricey Option

Because of its versatility, superior insulating power, durability and convenience, fiberglass remains among the costlier door options on the industry. While cheap fiberglass doors are available, they are not recommended; they could crack and need more maintenance throughout their lifetime, offsetting the initial savings. Fiberglass doors don’t always work in older homes since they are usually manufactured with the door frame attached, which means that installing one in a door that’s not standard size requires the assistance of a professional.

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What Can I Do About Grubs from the Springtime?

As you work in your garden, then you might come across C-shaped, whitish grubs in soil. They have brown to tan heads and six stubby, brown legs. The grubs are the larvae of various sorts of scarab beetles. Most of the grubs feed on plant roots, but some feed on decaying organic matter. Although white grubs may appear formidable, an occasional grub usually doesn’t cause substantial damage to plants. Spring is a fantastic time to gauge white grubs’ presence and their population level.

Keep Lawns Healthy

The lawn area most likely to include grubs is the yard. Numerous scarab beetles lay their eggs in turfgrass; those beetles include the masked chafer, May and June beetles as well as also the black turfgrass ataenius. A wholesome lawn can withstand some damage from grubs without showing symptoms. So in spring, follow good mowing, mowing and fertilizing practices to keep your lawn just as healthy as possible. Aerate and dethatch the lawn since aeration destroys a range of grubs.

Monitor for Lawn Grubs

In spring, lawn grubs are large and easily seen. They soon become pupae to your resting phase and after that hatch as adults in early summer. Although usually the best time for grub control steps would be in mid to late summer, spring monitoring will provide you an notion of the grub population’s amount. With a sharp spade or shovel, cut through the grass so it is possible to roll back a flap of the turf and appear at the main area. Count the grubs present in 1 square foot of lawn grass roots, using a few 1-square-foot samples. In case the trials average six or fewer grubs, then the grub population level is reduced enough for yard damage from grubs to be unlikely. Home lawns infrequently have severe enough grub infestations to warrant treatment with pesticides. If the amount of infestation is near the threshold of six grubs per 1 square foot, then track the grub population in late summer or fall as well.

Manage Lawn Grubs

If therapy is necessary, consider using beneficial nematodes, which are parasites of white grubs and destroy them. The microscopic wormlike creatures can kill 50 percent or more of white grubs without undermining naturally occurring parasites and predators that also reduce grub levels. Buy nematodes from a reputable provider, and keep them alive until you use them. Apply nematodes once the grubs are active and present, which is usually late spring, summer or early fall. Determining which kinds of nematodes are successful against the sorts of grubs in your yard is essential. Don’t use the nematodes unless temperatures are above 60 degrees Fahrenheit. During hot weather, wait until cooler evening temperatures prior to their program. Mix the live nematodes with water, and apply them with a hose-on sprayer, after the label directions for the specific kind of nematode you use. Then irrigate the yard with about 1/4 inch of water. Additional irrigation sessions might be asked to keep the soil moist but not soggy so the nematodes can move through it freely. Yet another nematode program two weeks following the initial one may be needed.

Monitor Non-Lawn Areas

White grubs you find in compost heaps or piles of plant debris are probably larvae of green June beetles, large, metallic-green and brownish insects. The adults fly in summertime, eating ripe and overripe fruits. The grubs consume decomposing plant material as opposed to live origins. In spring, remove piles of old plant substance, and turn compost piles, removing and destroying the grubs as you find them, to lessen the amount of grubs that can eventually become green June beetle adults.

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Weed Killers to Zoysia 'Palisades'

It’s been said that a weed is any plant growing where it’s not wanted. When annoying weeds mar the look of “Palisades” zoysia grass (Zoysia japonica “Palisades”), weedkillers help restore its pristine beauty. But if you aren’t a zoysia lover, “Palisades” could be as undesirable as weedy intruders. Whether you are maintaining a “Palisades” zoysia lawn weed-free or moving on to new turf, knowing zoysia-safe and zoysia-deterrent herbicides is essential.

Understanding “Palisades” Zoysia

The same features that attract individuals to “Palisades” influence its answer to grass killers. Hardy at U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 6 through 10, “Palisades” is a drought- and also shade-tolerant, warm-season grass. Its active growing season in Mediterranean climates runs from April through October. As the weather cools down, so does “Palisades” dense growth — it still spends winter dormant and visibly red. “Palisades” has greater cold hardiness and endurance than many zoysia grasses. It bounces back early and greens up fast come spring. “Palisades” bears several seeds. Instead, it spreads aggressively through both above-ground stolons and below-ground rhizomes.

Using Pre-Emergent Herbicides

To work, pre-emergent herbicides must hit bud seeds before they germinate. This happens when soil warms to 50 to 55 degrees Fahrenheit for several consecutive days. In Mediterranean areas, this frequently occurs right as spring starts. Limit pre-emergents to well-established “Palisades” lawns, and never apply within 90 days of seeding. They stop grass seed from sprouting as well as weeds. Choose herbicides labeled zoysia-safe and aimed to particular weed pests. For example, pendimethalin products safely fight annual crabgrass (Digitaria spp.) When applied to zoysia at rates of 1 ounce per 1,000 square feet, or according to the label instructions. Water “Palisades” with 1/2 to 1 inch of water immediately after pendimethalin applications.

Fighting Established Weeds

In warm desert and interior spaces, healthy “Palisades” out-competes most weeds, but cooler coastal zones sap its advantage. Regular mowing helps prevent new grass seeds, but once weeds emerge, zoysia-safe choices are restricted. Most postemergent herbicides require licensed professional applicators. Nonselective herbicides — that destroy all plants — are readily available to spot-treat weeds. Wait till “Palisades” goes completely dormant and green weeds stick out against hangers. Dormancy helps protect zoysia from absorbing herbicide. Utilize a ready-to-use grass and grass killer with 2 percent glyphosate, and carefully spray weeds until wet. Be precise, so the weedkiller does not touch the “Palisades” or other plants.

Eliminating Zoysia Grass

When “Palisades” wears out its welcome, killing the grass isn’t simple. Glyphosate-based products timed to coincide with zoysia’s active growth period deliver the best results. Because its extensive roots reach around 30 inches deep, killing zoysia might take several applications. Water “Palisades” well to support active development, and leave it unmown for more leaf surface. Mix 13 ounces of 41 percent glyphosate focus on 1 gallon of water for an optimal-strength solution. Spray unwanted “Palisades” thoroughly and carefully; avoid all contact with desirable plants. Wait one or two weeks, then water well, and re-treat any grass that reacts. Repeat two to three times, as required.

Using Weed Killers Safely

Zoysia’s tenacious temperament pairs having some sensitivity to common herbicides. Always check product labels for zoysia security to get rid of weeds and maintain your grass. When handling zoysia itself, equal care is necessary since nonselective herbicides kill all plants that they touch. Spray herbicides on quiet, wind-free days, with no rain in the forecast. Wear protective eyewear, chemical-resistant gloves, a long-sleeved shirt, long pants, gloves and shoes when using grass or grass killers. Keep the places clear of kids and pets, and follow label instructions about when it’s safe for people and pets to return in the region. Avoid contact with exposed skin, and wash well with soap and shake after managing chemicals.

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What Colour Should I Paint My Bedroom if My Bedspread Is Blue and Brown?

Pull from the blue or the brownish in the bedspread to paint your room a suntan brown, a light, blue-tinted gray or even a pale green with gloss-white baseboards and door trim. Because blue and brown are both colours found in nature, an array of earthy tones anticipates your choice when you are painting the bedroom to coordinate with your bedspread.

Blues and Browns

It all is dependent upon the deepness of those colours in your blue-and-brown bedspread when you select the colours for your own room. If the bedspread leans into the darker end of the scale with bare blues and dark browns, a light smoky grey on the walls, then trimmed with white, supplies soft subtle contrast which makes the bed stand center stage in the room. The neutral gray also attracts calming effects to soothe ruffled nerves after a hard day’s work. However, if the bedspread falls beneath the lighter end of this spectrum, then add an accent wall in colour, and paint the other walls in lighter shades of brown.

Light Blue, Brown Florals

A bedspread with a light blue backdrop covered with lacy brown florals works with most any paint colour scheme on the wall, from muted ochers, muted brown-yellows of summer grasses or even pale beige. Insert paint that’s two shades darker for your baseboards, door and window trim. A warm brown area rug adds a cozy feel to this space, whether on carpet or over a hardwood flooring.

Reversible Bedspread

When you have a reversible brown-and-blue bedspread with leaves or alternative layouts that trail upon the top of the bedspread in the other color, you can paint the space to match both or either side of this spread. When the blue side leans more toward a light blue-green with dark brown layouts, or the deep brown side contains lighting blue-green designs, use either color on the wall for a smooth match. Though it is not a good idea to paint the whole space a dark aubergine — purple-brown — making it the accent wall behind the bed may work. Or paint the walls light blue-green and the baseboards and trim in a dark brownish for comparison and bedspread tie-in.

Hints of White

Whether the spread to your bed includes accents of antique white or eggshell or not, paint the walls in these colours for a room is effective even when you choose a new bedspread. Allow the walls fade into the background to contrast the room’s decor. Or choose a creamy light chocolate for those walls to juxtapose against dark hardwood photo frames and dark walnut dressers, end tables and bed frame.

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